Paharganj offers more than just a plethora of cheap accommodations and tourist friendly restaurants. Visitors who are willing to throw themselves into the thick of things will find there’s no better place to be immersed into India. Paharganj is simply teeming with life from another world. It's dirty, noisy and full of crumbling buildings, but is also vibrant and full of energy.
To gain a fascinating insight into what keeps India running, all one has to do is sit and watch the endless procession of people, animals, and vehicles along the Main Bazaar. The constantly evolving streetscape makes it impossible to get bored. Vans, taxis, ox carts, cycle rickshaws, mobile food vendors, and roaming salesman carrying an array of wares on their heads all make up the stream of daily activity.
Sometimes, something out of the usual will happen to disturb the ebb and flow. A restaurant starts handing out plates of free food from a huge vat on the side of the street, resulting in a rush of people to the scene to get their share. The road becomes blocked and all traffic grinds to a halt. Meanwhile the drone of the horns from impatient drivers who aren’t feasting escalates to a fever pitch. Then the crowd dissipates and everything starts continuing on as it was before, and as it has done for years.
Apart from all the mesmerizing goings-on, Paharganj’s main attraction is definitely the bargain shopping. The whole Main Bazaar is lined with shops full to the brim of new age and travel books, music, silver jewellery and gemstones, bangles, bindis, bags, clothes, incense, statues and handicrafts. Many wholesale merchants can also be found around the Paharganj area, making it a good place to come and hunt out unique and inexpensive goods to import back home.
Another thing that Paharganj has in its favour is its location. It’s situated right next to the New Delhi Railway station, making it very handy for those visitors planning to head off on their travels by long distance train.
Without a doubt, Paharganj requires some adjusting to and has been the cause of many cases of culture shock. However, visitors will come away much more prepared for the challenges that the rest of India often serves up.
Where to Stay in Paharganj
Hotel Shelton offers convenient and clean budget accommodations, although the beds may be too hard for some people. For around 600-800 rupees per night guests can stay in a large, airy double room with balcony overlooking the action of Paharganj’s main bazaar. The hotel also has a popular roof top restaurant called the Kitchen Café, which serves tasty food. It’s located at 5043 Main Bazaar. Ph: 91(11) 2358-0575 or email sheltonH@rediffmail.com.
For those wanting some time away from the hustle and bustle of the Main Bazaar, the Hotel Relax is a good option. Double rooms cost around 1200 rupees and the hotel has an ambient pot plant filled terrace that overlooks the street below. It’s located at 4970 Ram Dwara Rd, Nehru Bazaar (just off the Main Bazaar). Ph 91(11)2356-2811 or emailing vidur109@hotmail.com.
The Hotel Cottage Yes Please is a fairly new, decent hotel that’s recommended for visitors who don’t want to sacrifice their amenities. The hotel also caters to families, with bunk beds for children. Expect to pay around 1000-1800 rupees per night for a room. It’s located just off the main Bazaar at 1843-44, Laxmi Narayan Street, Raj Guru Road.
Where to Eat in Paharganj
Sam’s Café, at the Vivek Hotel, is a long term Paharganj favourite. It serves good western breakfasts and has an ambiant rooftop location, as well as a ground floor indoor eating area. It’s located at 1534-50 Main Bazaar.
Those wanting a change from the standard budget fare should head to the Metropolis Bar and Restaurant at the Metropolis Tourist Home. This rooftop restaurant has excellent service and food, with prices to match. It’s also one of the few places in Paharganj that serves alcohol. It’s located at 1634 Main Bazaar.
Sharell Cook - Sharell was born and grew up in a small country town in Australia. She discovered her love of travel and culture around 10 years ago, when ...
